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First prep your palette with grey cream makeup (the Kryolan Zombie color wheel is great). Also add a little bit of purple, black, and red for shading.
Then paint the entire face grey with a makeup brush. Work it up into the hairline, and get the neck, ears, and any other exposed skin.
Blend it in nicely with a makeup sponge.
Once you get a nice unhealthy pallor, you’re ready to do some contouring. Take a smaller brush and contour all the recesses of the face with light purple.
Get the contour of the cheek bones, inside the temple, around the hair line, the jawline, contours of the ear, and chin.
Get the contours of the eyes to make them appear sunken.
Next contour down the length of the nose to make it look sharp.
The secret is in learning how to shade with the contours of the face. See how sunken eye sockets are starting to take shape.
Now break a makeup sponge in half and gently blend, just to get rid of the brush strokes. A broken sponge is great for creating evenly blended makeup.
Now take a darker purple and define the recesses of the contours even more. Light purple to dark purple to black will create a nice sense of depth.
Get all the contours you'd like to appear sunken: eye sockets, cheekbones, and temple. Stipple around the hairline.
Blend in again with another broken makeup sponge. Dab very gently to not remove layers of makeup. You're only trying to minimize brush strokes.
The depth of your contouring should start to become visible.
Now prep some white cream makeup on a brush.
Start to highlight the highest points of the face with white. You're really trying to make the shadows look super deep.
Gently blend in with a broken sponge. Again, being careful to not remove layers of makeup.
Use a burgundy color to line the eyes to make them look sunken and irritated.
Draw on severe eyebrows with black.
Make sure the eyebrows look even.
Shade in the eye sockets with black. Then brush with setting powder.
Line lips and eyes with black kajal pencil.
Darken the eye sockets.
Now brush the cheekbones and tops of the eyebrows with a highlighting powder.